Fort Chaffee in Fort Smith, Arkansas

Fort Chaffee

Fort Smith, Arkansas

In Brief

Fort Chaffee in western Arkansas held about 25,000 Cuban refugees from the 1980 Mariel boatlift, penned behind a fence until a riot broke out. Years later a ghost crew recording in the abandoned post hospital kept catching one Spanish word out of the empty air: the word for coffee.

The Full Story

Fort Chaffee in western Arkansas was a soldier's post for eighty years, but the ghost story people tell there is about the people it held against their will. In 2010, a television crew recording inside the abandoned post hospital kept catching one word out of the empty air, and it wasn't English. On the playback it said, "coffee, café."

Thirty years earlier, the place had been a holding camp. The 1980 Mariel boatlift carried more than 100,000 Cubans to Florida, and the government needed somewhere to put them while it sorted them out. Around 25,000 came to Chaffee — political prisoners, ordinary families, and men Castro had emptied out of his jails, all penned behind one fence together and waiting. The tension built fast. In late May, about 200 simply walked out an unlocked gate, and that night the Ku Klux Klan showed up outside the fort with signs.

A week later it broke open. On June 1, several hundred refugees marched on the front gate chanting "Libertad!" — freedom. State police met them with clubs and gunfire. Three men were shot, two buildings burned, and 84 were thrown in jail. Over the next two years the rest were processed through and gone.

The hospital that had held them sat empty after that, rotting, a place ghost hunters would drive hundreds of miles to walk through. When the crew came in 2010 and caught that one Spanish word, the guard walking with them had an answer ready: the Cuban detainees had been coffee fiends the whole time they were held, always asking for it. The detail lines up a little too neatly to wave off, and is a little too small to prove anything.

A year later it was gone. On August 3, 2011, a National Guardsman dropped a cigarette, and the fire it started tore through 111 buildings of the old medical complex — the hospital the crew had walked through among them.

So the rooms where the Cubans waited, where a recorder once caught a Spanish word out of empty air, no longer stand. The fort is still active, a National Guard training center now. The one building that held them isn't there to visit.

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